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 THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY
Dozens of Courses & Miles of Beaches
There are many ways to reach the southern tip of Texas, but only two ways to travel once you get there—nice and easy. Rio Grande Valley locals call it “the spirit of mañana,” the effortless ability to turn any day into a carefree and indulgent romp…and that’s a useful headspace on a golf trip.
Tourists have been flocking to this region for decades. From South Padre Island’s inviting white-sand beaches to renowned fishing, ample bird and wildlife watching near Brownsville (the state’s southernmost city) and easy access to border towns (and shopping in) Matamoros, Progreso and Rio Bravo, the Valley draws hundreds of thousands of visitors annually.
The visitor’s bureau reports that the region’s tropical climate affords sun seekers an average of 253 “picturesque” sunny days per year—by that math, there must be at least 325-plus “golfable” days in there too.
The concept of an “affordable golf destination” may ring a little oxymoronic, but anyone who has ever played in the Rio Grande Valley understands that you can still stretch a dollar while playing some quality golf.
For starters, the region is a little remote—eight hours from Houston by car, six hours from Austin and three hours from Corpus Christi. Also, the Valley is historically a farming region and while numerous industries are beginning to expand into Brownsville, McAllen and parts in between, the overall cost of living remains relatively modest.
This means you’re going to find a collection of enjoyable golf courses charging well below typical resort or even big-city rates. There isn’t a course in the region that charges over $70 for a green fee, for example, and most public layouts charge between $25 and $35. Stay-and-play rates that include room, golf and sometimes food can often be found between $150 and $190 per night. In some cases, “golf” means “unlimited golf,” and the premium is on fun.
The area of the Valley that draws the most tourists and golfers is South Padre Island, more specifically, South Padre Island Golf Club. Built in 1997, this 6,931-yard, par 72 gulf side treat takes full advantage of the surrounding Laguna Madre, the serene inlet that separates South Padre Island from the South Texas mainland.
The bay frames the 190-yard, par-3 third hole, offering a first glimpse of the vast gulf and a realization of just how picturesque golf in the Valley can be. The par-5 fourth and short par-4 fifth holes play close to the glistening bay with the risk/reward No. 5 daring you to cut off as much beach and bay as your skill and ego will allow in an effort to reach the narrow putting surface.
A half hour’s drive back to the mainland and just north of Brownsville, you’ll find the region’s venerable boutique resort, Rancho Viejo Resort & Country Club. Home to two 18-hole, par-70 layouts, El Diablo and El Angel, Rancho Viejo has been a staple of the Valley golf experience for nearly four decades. Owner Ted Trapp fondly recalls the days when celebrities and golf legends like Jimmy Demaret, Jackie Burke, Don Rickles and Don Cherry would hide away in his warm, inviting hacienda and palm tree-lined fairways.
“Don Cherry would visit and he’d always ask me where my wife Margaret was,” Trapp says. “Often, I’d answer that she was hitting the shops in nearby San Benito. Cherry would shake his head, laugh and say, ‘One day I’m going to have to write a song called ‘The Streets of San Benito.’
The fairways of Rancho Viejo are built on a former citrus orchard, with an 80-foot-wide irrigation lake from citrus farming days winding through the property and presenting an array of forced carries. Of the two courses, El Diablo is the longer and more demanding track from tee to green, while El Angel uses sharp doglegs, penal rough and deceptive bunkering to defend its 6,464-yard length.
Peter Jacobsen calls the par he made on El Diablo No. 18 (played today as #9) during the 1976 PGA Tour Qualifying Tournament the “toughest 4” he’s ever made. He needed the par to secure his card. Craig Stadler, Keith Fergus and Jay Haas also secured their cards during that event on El Diablo and golfers to this day respect the test this stern layout presents.
The resort’s one- and two-bedroom Southwestern style villas are located along the golf course. Accommodations abound in the Valley, but once discovered, many guests return to Rancho Viejo regularly.
In Harlingen, one of the Valley’s best “finds” is Treasure Hills Golf Club, a parkland treat that plays like a Hill Country course for about 11 holes. Surprising elevation changes and a solid Robert Trent Jones, Jr. design make Treasure Hills a must-play in the region. The course features more elevated approaches than any other in the area and some of the best views, too.
A 40-minute drive from Harlingen, Tierra Santa Golf Club in Weslaco is an enjoyable layout with large, elevated greens, generous fairways and attractive mounding, bunkering and water features. Water comes into play on 13 holes of this 7,101-yard Jeff Brauer/Steve Elkington collaboration. Brauer moved a great deal of dirt to achieve the Tierra Santa aesthetic, but it paid off, as the mounding gives the illusion that many of the fairways aren’t as generous as they play. Signature waterfalls on Nos. 10 and 18 complete the look and the grub at the Waterfall Grille is terrific.
Los Lagos Golf Club in nearby Edinburg is the newest golfing attraction in the Valley. A von Hagge-Smelek-Baril design with diabolical mounding and water hazards galore, Los Lagos debuted in 2000 and golfers have quickly learned to respect this short, but unforgiving 6,401-yard layout. Howling winds and numerous shots that must carry water dictate your strategy on this fun and challenging layout. The signature hole is the par-three 14th featuring a peninsula green with a lake and railroad ties guarding the front left and rear of the putting surface and a 160-yard carry.
River Bend Resort in Brownsville wins truth-in-advertising points because it actually does touch the Rio Grande River. Understand though, that “resort” in this case means RV resort—and expect some odd looks if you ask for a spa appointment here. What you will find is a challenging golf course that winds through a well-treed and scenic delta along the Rio Grande. At 6,735 yards with narrow fairways, water on most holes and fierce winds, many golfers call River Bend the sleeper experience of the trip—they just don’t expect such a memorable experience from a $35 course that does very little advertising.
Relaxation is not difficult in the Valley; deciding on the perfect set of after-golf activities is.
The region’s most notable tourist attraction is the 26 miles of South Padre Island’s white sand that draws visitors around the globe for water-oriented fun.
Windsurfing, parasailing and watercraft riding are all popular and easy to do, and fishermen have numerous options as well. If the area’s renowned deep-sea charters that chase redfish, trout and flounder aren’t your thing, you can angle out on the bay or off of many local piers. Fishing is an intrinsic part of the culture in South Padre, so ask a local about the best spots to drop your line and you’ll probably be pleased with his friendly tips.
Nature lovers will find the Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge a fun place to watch native birds and critters like ocelots, white wings, Texas tortoises, green jays, alligators, black-bellied whistling ducks and roadrunners frolic in their natural environments. What the NFL is in places like Boston, Dallas and Denver, bird watching (the cool kids just call it “birding”) is apparently the same to thousands of faithful visitors to the Valley.
The beauty of the Valley is that it’s just remote enough to remain unspoiled and just developed enough to feel like your bilingual home away from home. Locals say appreciating the Valley is just a matter of experiencing it. Don’t wait for mañana—the spirit of mañana is already waiting for you.
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